Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a global network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," according to a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its soul: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to explore these stories and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
